The most common misconception about oils is that they are interchangeable. Not so; every oil reacts to heat differently, which is the factor that determines how to cook with it—or whether you should cook with it at all. So when a recipe says use sesame, peanut or chili oil, it’s best not to substitute if you want the desired results.
The first thing to consider when choosing a cooking oil is what you are using it for. To sauté? To add flavor? To cook healthy meals? Will the oil be hot or cold? These questions will help you determine whether you need a “bit-player” or a “star” cooking oil for the dish you’re making.
Bit-Player Oils
Bit-player oils are the ones that pave the way for your great recipes. They’re perfect for cooking or frying because they can handle high heat, and they don’t impose on or overpower the flavor of the food itself. Reasonably inexpensive, they’re relatively flavorless too—which is why they’re not a great choice for salad dressings or sauces but are an ideal butter substitute in cakes, breads and other baked goods, making them incredibly moist!
Vegetable oil:
A blend of several different plant, nut and seed oils (often primarily soybean), this can take high heat.
Corn oil:
Yes, corn is a vegetable but it’s also a starch, so it gets a category of its own. One of the most commonly used, corn oil is high in polyunsaturated fat, but it can foam and smoke if it gets too hot.
Safflower oil:
Colorless, made from safflower seeds and good for salad dressings (not because of its flavor but because you can refrigerate it), this doesn’t solidify when chilled. Great for deep frying because of its high smoking point.
Sunflower oil:
This is a useful all-purpose oil, although some people find its flavor too strong for baked goods and salads. It’s low in saturated fat and high in polyunsaturated fat, and because it stores well, it’s highly resistant to rancidity.
Peanut oil:
Extracted from steamed peanuts, this oil has a smoking point that’s slightly lower than corn or safflower oil and, therefore, best used for frying chicken.
Coconut oil:
This tasty oil has been experiencing a renaissance. Once considered fattening, it’s now thought to have health benefits (the virgin version pressed from fresh coconut, that is). Use it for curry dishes and for frying.
Canola oil:
Extracted from conventionally-bred variants of the rapeseed plant, canola oil is lower in saturated fat than any other oil. Its neutral flavor and relatively high smoking point make it a good all-purpose oil.
"Star" Cooking Oils
A “star” oil—one with a distinct flavor that calls attention to itself—is a noteworthy ingredient in a recipe. Nut oils often fall into this category because of their delicate flavor (which heating can diffuse); they can be used when cooking or baking, but are best suited for appropriate recipes, e.g., using walnut or hazelnut oil in banana bread.
Sesame oil:
This oil is thick, aromatic and highly flavorful, especially the dark or toasted version. Prevalent in Chinese and Indian cooking, it has a rich, smoky taste that can make for a delicious surprise in conventional sauces, dips and spreads.
Almond oil and avocado oil:
These both have distinctive flavors—sweetly nutty—but they also tolerate high heat, which makes them good for cooking and frying.
Grapeseed oil:
It has the highest smoking point so it’s the best to cook with (although it can be expensive). A by-product of winemaking, grapeseed oil is also slightly nutty—which makes it a good base for salad dressing or infused oils plus stir-fries and fondue.
Olive oil:
Practically in a class by itself, olive oil is considered the Cadillac of oils for reasons ranging from culinary to cosmetic. (Sophia Loren purportedly credits the abundance of olive oil in Italian food for her ageless, radiant complexion.) Extracted from tree-ripened olives, it’s flavorful and considered one of the “good-for-you” fats, mainly because of its antioxidant properties and oleic acid (a monounsaturated fat, which translates as heart healthy).
Regular olive oil (or 100 percent pure olive oil), is usually a deep gold and has higher acidity and less flavor than “virgin” olive oil—but it’s the best for cooking since it can withstand higher heat. By the way, “light” olive oil means only the color is lighter—it has just as many calories (120 in a tablespoon) as regular olive oil.
What’s “virgin” or “extra virgin” olive oil? According to the International Olive Oil Council, headquartered in Spain, “virgin” oil is cold pressed, uncooked and untreated. In the U.S., “virgin” refers to oil that comes from the first pressing of the olives, without further processing. “Extra virgin” is simply “virgin” olive oil with low acidity (below one percent). When first pressed, these oils are deep green, but the color fades with time.